Friday 30 January 2015

Chasing the internet

We're still without internet in the apartment so every weekend focuses on chasing cafés that have free internet and cheap, vegan food. Today we are at Shams el Balad, a vegetarian, part-organic café. Very cosy atmosphere, decent internet, and cheap food! 


Thursday 29 January 2015

"We had houses and lands, we had dreams"

A kind of throw-back-Thursday, because I found this old article I wrote when in Palestine last year that never got published, because of lack of things getting done.

"We had houses and lands, we had dreams. The occupation came and took all this from us and now we are refugees.”


We sit in an idyllic garden with fruit trees and birds chirping in the background. It offers a stark contrast to the story the man we are meeting is telling us. It is a story of occupation and a story of loss. Loss of land, loss of income, loss of a whole village’s history and loss of one mans hope and dreams.

Ahmad Barghouti, most known as Abu Nidal, has seven children. He and his wife Rabaa live in the small village of Al Walaja, outside Bethlehem. At 67 years old he is unemployed, like the rest of his family. He used to work in construction in Israel but no one in his family receives a permit to cross the border anymore. They rely on what they can reap from the garden and a small sum of money sent by one of his sons who work abroad. It is not enough.

As a child Abu Nidal lived with his family in the original village of Al Walaja. In 1948, when he was just one year old, the whole village had to flee when Israel occupied the area. Around 1 200 people were displaced. Most of them fled to Jordan, and the rest, like Abu Nidal, settled in the West Bank. Together they created a new village, the new Al Walaja. 66 years later, the population originating from the village has grown to 20 000 people in Jordan and around 2 500 in new Al Walaja.

When Abu Nidal talks about Israel and the displacement of his people, you can hear the bitterness in his voice. But he does not only blame Israel for that which has happened to them:

“The entire world helped in our displacement, Israel is nothing without the help of European countries. We are the victims of the United Nations.” 

He tells us that he believes that Israel is a victim of Europe as well, that they wanted to get rid of the “Jewish problem” by giving the Jews a state in Palestine. They tried with many other places before settling on Palestine, just to get them out of Europe, he says. Israel is also, according to Abu Nidal, manipulated by USA, who uses them as a kind of weapon, a frontline in the Middle East.

As he looks out over the valley, he points to the “green line”, the official border dividing the land between Israelis and Palestinians. On the other side of the border lays the rest of the land belonging to the original village of Al Walaja. Even though it is so close, it is seemingly lost forever for Abu Nidal and his neighbors.

As a refugee, the only land I have is this. They took 150 dunoms of my land for the Geilo settlement, 200 dunoms was confiscated to road building and all I had left was 40 dunoms.”

YMCA helped him plant 180 olive trees to be able to support himself by exporting olive oil to Europe. It did not take long until the Israeli army came and uprooted the olive trees, together with other fruit trees. Apples, apricots, figs and grapes. Without notice, without explanation, they just came and took his hope of a livelihood away. The plan was to use the land as a source of living for the family. He had 30 beehives, plenty of goats and a tractor to work the land. Now he has only a couple of beehives and six goats left. And the tractor is no longer allowed to enter the area.

“Israel is like a bulldozer that stretches it’s arm out and take all the land that it wants.”

Abu Nidal has lost a lot to Israel, but not his sense of humor, though it is a tad dark. When asked if he gets intimidated or abused by soldiers at his house, he answers with a hearty laughter:

“This house, it is the soldiers house, not mine. They’ve taken everything. Maybe one day, they will even take my wife!”

It is hard to not laugh with him, he has a contagious laughter, but he is serious. They have taken all but everything from him. Two thirds of the 40 dunoms Abu Nidal had left, is now on the other side of the apartheid wall. The wall is not yet built here, but it might as well be. A road cuts through the landscape where the wall is to be built and already now separates Abu Nidal from his land. He sighs and tells about how beautiful the view used to be, and about how his grandchildren used to come and play on the land.

“About a month ago my granddaughter was playing by the road, the Israeli army came and told her to move.“

It is not only his grandchildren that are forbidden access, he can not use the land for farming or to graze his goats. Abu Nidal’s mother, father and grandmother’s are buried in this land. The road was initially planned to go on top of the family grave. He went to the court and they approved to move the road, with the result that he lost more land. But at least, for now, he can visit the graves. He has a walk-through under the road, but it will be guarded with a gate when the wall is finished. He has yet to receive an answer on how often he will be able to go through the gate.

Abu Nidal is clear about what he thinks about Israel’s policies, it is apartheid. The wall is used to separate the Palestinian people, confiscate land and build settlements. The last phase of colonization. The way to Beit Jala, a nearby town, used to be five minutes, because of the wall it now takes 30 minutes. The villagers are afraid they may loose access to the town if the Israelis decide to build a gate in the wall to prevent them from passing. When the wall is finished they will live in an open-air prison, guarded by Israelis at the gates. It is, according to Abu Nidal, part of their plan to displace Palestinians and let only Israelis live in their land.

“Israel wants a Jewish state so it doesn’t want to place anyone who is not Jewish here; this is a high level of apartheid and racism.“

They demolished 40 houses in the village to build Israeli homes, some of the houses were even demolished twice. People build their houses again and again, even if it is torn down, because they have nowhere else to go.

“We are not allowed to build houses because we have a green ID [Palestinian ID]. We are treated only with bulldozers and demolitions.“

Palestinians water share in the area, according to Abu Nidal, is about 14 liters per day and person, while the Israelis share is 140 liters. They have underground water in their lands but they are not permitted by Israel to make use of it. Instead, the water goes straight to the Israeli settlements in the nearby area.

It is no doubt that Abu Nidal is a politically aware man. He talks about the boycott of Israel in Europe, he approves of the idea but at the same time feels ashamed that the Arabs are not supporting it. In Palestine the shops are full of Israeli products and he feels they are supporting them by buying and using the products. He believes that the people should stand in front of their governments. To put pressure on them so that they will boycott the occupation and stop supporting Israel so it’s economy will collapse. But resistance, small or big, is hard in Palestine. Those who have a permission to work in Israel will not participate, or let their children participate, in popular struggle such as demonstrations. The economical situation is so bad that they can not afford to loose their permits. Popular struggle also needs leadership, but there are no leaders here, Abu Nidal tells us:

“No one protects the ones who resist, even though it is their right to fight to end apartheid. /…/ Here we don’t have safety, even the Palestinian Authority is protecting Israel.”

Before answering the last question on how the personal impact has been upon the family, financially and emotionally, he pauses and gives up a tired chuckle before replying:

“I’ve got nothing left…”




To learn more about the village Al Walaja and Abu Nidal’s neighbours, you can see a short video, read a short text and see some pictures that illustrates the life in the village, just follow the links:


Tuesday 20 January 2015

Settling in

Yesterday we finally got to move in to our new den! I say ‘den' since the apartment is underground, partly. We have windows up by the ceiling, but to protect us from unwanted attention (wouldn’t want anyone to peek in while cooking and discovering our secret recipes, right?) the windows are covered with dark film. So we are a bit shielded from the world on “the surface” and are slightly blinded every time we climb up from the den. An upside to living on the downside though is that it is warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer! Something that we will definitely be grateful for in a couple of months. 

Even though the apartment is newly, and completely, renovated, we had some issues when we moved in and I had to do one of the things I hate most - ask the landlords to fix it. So far they’ve got us a kitchen table and fixed the flood in the bathroom, but they have still to fix the heating in the living room, the bathroom door (which won’t close), the three windows that can’t be locked and the closets, which are missing the bars you hang your hangers on. And they promised to help us getting internet in the apartment. But I guess we have to get used to doing (and expecting things to be done) in Jordanian time; slightly slower than we’re used to.

The apartment is really nice though, and so is Amman. We really enjoy the culture of eating falafel and hummus, with bread as your spoon, fork and knife, shopping your vegetables at the market down town, buying fresh bread at the bakery and going to smoky cafés. Yes, our lives revolve around food. But whose doesn’t?

Especially now when it is getting warmer life is quite enjoyable in Jordan. Just last week we huddled around a gas heater in the apartment we shared with four other expats. Covered in blankets, warm socks, scarfs, hoodies and all things warm that we could find. We couldn’t wash because it was so cold and humid inside so nothing ever dried. My shoes were wet for a week because I walked in slushy snow one day and I had to were plastic bags as socks to try to stay dry and somewhat warm. 



Monday 12 January 2015

New days and new things

So today I both had my first day at my new internship in Shmeisani (which is an area in Amman, but sounds like a dish in eastern Europe), and signed a contract for the 'Aamazing apartment' I mentioned earlier. Quite exciting times I would say. 

At my internship at Identity Center, an organization working for participation in civil society, democracy and human rights, I’ve so far become “responsible” for twitter and instagram and been assigned to do infograhps about female participation in Jordanian politics. Interesting subjects, I’m looking forward to getting started! 

Me and my tea cup sitting at my very own desk at the office


Saturday 10 January 2015

The art of apartment hunting

We’ve been around on every website known (to google) for finding furnished apartments to rent in Amman. We’ve changed budget about one hundred times and considered everything from sharing flats to living in a studio apartment or renting an apartment 3 bedroom big. 

We started off seeing some studio apartments, we were excited to go there because the rent was exceptionally low, even most of the bills included. We should've known better than to expect anything close to reasonable standard. I don’t need to say much more than that the hallway had a, lets say convincing, odour of cat piss.

Onto the next project, we’ve had contact with two agents working for a website (gweet.com, similar to airbnb.com) and they took us to see some apartments, slightly out of our budget. For the first apartment we ventured far into a residential area I don’t know the name of, and visited the darkest, most depressing apartment I’ve ever seen. Considering standard and location it was way over priced, I didn’t even have to glance at Robert to know we wouldn’t move there if it so were for free. I guess it was some sort of sales trick that he took us there first. Because the next apartment, for the same price, was Aamazing (yes, it deserves both a capital and a dubbel ‘A’). Central, newly renovated, big, fresh, modern, never used before, safe area, close to transportation, you name it. Only draw back was that it is i.n the basement, though it has windows. And of course not to forget - it is definitely too good to be true, and a little over our budget. 

So tomorrow we will see two apartments, both with perfect locations. One of them seems to cheap, so there must be a draw back there somewhere (my guess is, shared bathroom with the whole building), and the other one takes out an agents fee of 10% so it must be really good for us to go for it. 

It is fun, but nerve wracking. How many apartments should we see? How much of a “game” do the landlords/agents play? Is it okay to try and bargain the price? How long can you wait until you accept an offer? Clearly, I’m not very good at this, I just want everyone to be open about their intentions and let me take my time making up my mind. Oh, in a perfect world. 



So far we’ve been, what I consider, lucky. We’ve met nice and helpful people. And I think that the fine art of apartment hunting can be mastered by being nice (thanks dad for letting me inherit your ‘trevlighet’) and relentless. Answer to ads of apartments you don’t even want or afford, chance is they have another apartment. And if you’re nice enough, they’ll even come pick you up and drive you back to wherever and you won’t have to pay taxis back and forth everywhere!

Friday 9 January 2015

Thunder and lightning! It is… snowing in Amman?

After almost two days of traveling (train to Stockholm Tuesday, plane to Amman Wednesday) we finally arrived at Queen Alia airport in Jordan, outside Amman. Through the passport control, and an officer who briefly considered if he should be bother to be interested in why I came here for the fourth time - and decided not to be, and out into that distinct Jordan air. It smells like a mixture of fuel, dust and sunshine - it would have been wonderful, had it not been for the snow storm. 

When I was told that a snow storm would hit the Amman area I didn’t really take it seriously. It is like when it snows in London and the tube stops and you think “really? come on, it is just snow! How would it work if we stopped everything as soon as it snowed a little?" There wouldn’t be anything happening in half of Sweden for five months each year, would be the correct answer to that rhetorical question. But, I have to admit, it was quite bad. It was snowing pretty hard but it just kind of melted on the ground so everything became covered in slush, roads were closed and buses weren’t allowed to drive. This we learned after two hours or so waiting in the bus, which by the way was running all this time - really good for the environment right? Finally, one hour later, we found a cab driver who didn’t want to completely ruin us. So we shared a cab with two others and too many bags. 

I’ve never seen so many abandoned cars and selfie-taking (#snowselfie) people in one hour. Crazy times. After like an hour drive, with one of our co-passengers praying every time we starting going up hill, and an embarrassing re-introduction to Arabic, we finally arrived at the hotel.

Today has been crazy enough as well, after sleeping way over breakfast time we had to venture out into a rainy Amman to find something to eat. Hungry and cold we took a cab to the well-known Rainbow Street to find breakfast and an ATM. Just to find everything being closed. We decided to go down town instead, which usually is a pleasant walk, except today we had the company of rain water racing us down the hills. So by the time we came down and had to cross the road to get to the only open café we could find, we had to wade in 10 cm deep water that rushed through the streets. To say the least, my shoes got a little wet.

After that adventure we walked back to the hotel, soaking wet by now, to find ourselves a permanent place to live. And seeing as the Jordanian dinar is impossibly strong right now (nibbling at the British pound even) our budget has become near impossibly low.

Told you it would be an adventure! ;-)

Some stairs, or a waterfall? Who knows, I'm just glad we weren't going that way.


Saturday 3 January 2015

Family fun and leaving soon

Had a wonderful day with the family today. Shopping, food, laughs. I’m lucky to have such a supportive family. But I’m feeling more and more ready to go, find my own adventure. And also my skin is starting to protest against the cold, dry air. I’ve learned that now, when the skin on my face starts to react, it is time to go! 

We’ve booked a hotel for the first four nights, hopefully we can estimate from there how long time it will take to find somewhere to live. We’ve seen so many nice apartments online, but I think we have to be there to see the apartment, meet the landlords. And especially see the area. I’m getting more and more nervous, I have so many nice memories from Amman and Jordan. But the more I think about it, the less I remember. What was that area called again, how did one use the public transportation-system? I’ve no idea. Fun to learn all that over again. 


I really look forward to find my place there again. Get back to my favorite café at Paris circle, find a new supermarket, a fruit market, and of course, get back to weekly shopping at the second hand market in Abdali! Very important stuff. I’ll have to fight to not become a regular at the closest bakery and/or falafel place though, dangerous stuff that is.